Welcome to The Ivy League Look

This blog presents a historical view through articles, photographs, reminiscences, and advertisements, of an American style of men's fashion of the mid-20th century known as "The Ivy League Look" or "The Ivy Look."

This blog will not present modern-day iterations of this "look"; it will be shown in its original context as an American style worn during this specific era. Author commentary will be kept to a minimum.

This is not a commercial site and links to commercial sites will not be posted.

Showing posts with label Paul Stuart. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paul Stuart. Show all posts

October 30, 2013

Shop Talk, 1975

(click to enlarge)
(click to enlarge)

Shop Talk

At the Brooks Brothers' Madison Avenue address we found no garish signs in the window, only the familiar husky and headless tweed torsos which, legend has it, come to life each All Hallow's Eve at the stroke of twelve, and throw one heckuva board meeting. Inside, we were greeted by a graying Warner Oland look-alike who proved to be a perfectly nice man named Mr. Campbell. He showed us his selection of English striped silk and polyester rep neckties, now $6.95 to $7.50. A fine selection they were indeed, our eye particularly held by his array of solid-color foulards-with-the-little-thing's-embroidered-on-them. Sporting motifs mostly, plus little bulls and bears and crossed automatic pencils. Mr. Campbell was especially enthusiastic about a tie with little neckties on it, which, frankly, gave
us the willies.

Our salesman excused himself to get more patterns; more seductive, however, were the solid colors, and we selected a brace of them, one off-burgundy and the other a deep maize, and not wishing to trouble Mr. Campbell further with wrapping and sales slips, briskly pocketed them and headed for
the shoe department. Here we would find a wide assortment of those shoes-with-the-little-holes-all-over-the-toes at, if not next to cost, certainly something closer to our Fayva budgets than normal.

The shoe department proved disappointing;
someone had already cleaned out the shoes-with-lhe-little-holes, leaving only odd sizes behind, and we had to content ourselves with replacements for our worn, adhesive-mended Weejuns (which we left in a drastically reduced Cold Duck cooler/ice bucket).

Better luck on the fourth floor: luggage and ready-to-block hats in seductively vague beiges and pommy grays. We picked up a nice set of matching English leather carry-alls and, deploying ourselves at either aisle end to watch for floorwalkers, stuffed them full of headgear to be
blocked at home with the wonderful Abercrombie & Fitch Home Hat blocker received from Aunt Eleanor in lieu of our usual Old Spice gift pack assortment (we still don't know how much she got when Uncle Rudolf's insurance finally came through — and they're still pretty suspicious about that second set of tire tracks — but mum bets it was a bundle).

Sportswear proved equally fruitful. Wool tweed sports jackets normally $115 to $235 were now a low-low $92 and $188, and considering what the same money buys some poor yid up the Avenue at Paul Stuart, these fine Shetlands and lambswools would have been a steal at twice the price.

After selecting a rich rust number from the rack, we picked up a
super double-breasted camel's hair overcoat reduced to $299 and headed for the third floor dressing rooms to try them on, along with some nifty blue oxford Brooksflannel pajamas and a dozen pairs of Brooksknit undershorts which fit neatly, if a bit snugly, under the tan whipcord cavalry-twill trousers which we temporarily cuffed with straight pins from those terrific Brooks button-downs.

Suddenly feeling a bit warm, we decided to skip Sportshirts and Knits and proceed to the last stop of the day: those white Irish linen handkerchiefs whose hand rolled softness so reassuringly bulks out a new camel hair's ample pockets.

On our way out, we encountered our friend Mr, Campbell again. He seemed disappointed that we had not waited, so we paused a moment to admire a fine silk four-in-hand peppered with little embroidery necktie salesmen. As he turned to answer another shopper's query, we impulsively stuffed it in our jacket and hastily re-buttoned our overcoat.

"You should see the ties we've got coming next month," Mr. Campbell whispered with a conspiratorial wink upon returning, "Women. Nothing indecent or anything like that. Just famous ones like Jacqueline Onassis and Mrs. Angier Biddle Duke. Real doozies."

We thanked Mr. Campbell for the tip and headed casually for the exit. Once outside we found the crisp March air a tonic after the stuffy atmosphere within and, much refreshed, decided to skip lunch and see what looked good at Saks.


Source:

National Lampoon - March 1975

October 22, 2009

Paul Stuart raincoat, 1968

(click to enlarge)

Source:

New York Magazine - November 4, 1968

July 16, 2009

Paul Stuart, Authentic Bleeding Madras, 1972

(click to enlarge)

Source:

New York Magazine - 6/12/72

Those lapels...!

May 21, 2009

The “Updated American” suit and jacket silhouette

L to R: George Bush in a sack suit, William Clark in an Updated American suit (source: Ronald Reagan Presidential Library)


"This article came about as a reaction to the generally held opinion among internet denizens—and some writers—that the only true classic American style is the “traditional” Ivy League style. In my view, the Updated American style is as genuinely and legitimately American as the Ivy League style, reflected in the fact that it has become for all intents and purposes the standard American style for most American men."

Read this very informative article in its entirety:

The Paul Stuart Variation: Classic American Style

April 20, 2009

High noon - Bermuda, 1958




High noon - At Bermuda's Coral Beach Club the blaze of day discloses many tips for the southbound man. Note again the sports slacks,this time checked- a real trend that will become established this winter. Note also the knit bathing suits, the palm-frond "Tyroleans", the trim Panama, and the return of seersucker. Remember that, within the bounds of good taste, one can dress more colorfully beneath the southern sun. Remember, as well, that many native sports clothes you'll be tempted to buy are like some Italian wines - they travel badly.

Source:

Sporting Look - SI - 11/24/58

April 6, 2009

Big year for native fabrics



Big year for native fabrics

Bigger than ever in this winter resort season is Indian madras. Now a perennial, madras dyed in muted colors peculiar to India's vegetable dyes, came into this hemisphere by way of the Caribbean (SI, Jan. 23, 1956) and is now dominant in all caregories of resort apparel—slacks, shorts, shirts, dresses, dinner jackets, at-home pajamas, ties, cummerbunds, belts, even shoes and ditty bags for sailboats. It has paved the way for other fabrics with a similar rough-crafted look: batiks in brilliant Javanese and African prints are one example; sturdy work fabrics such as duck, denim and ticking are others. Shown here in Charlotte Amalie are shore clothes, for socializing or spectating at the Go-Kart races. They will be as much at home on northern shores this summer.

New jackets are (left) Dacron-and-cotton gingham ($37.50, Haspel: Chipp, Inc.) and Paul Simpson's duck blazer piped with hemp ($35, Cricketeer: Burdine's Hathaway shirt, $9).

Popular pants at Go-Kart races are batik and madras. Man's batik pants at left, also shown close up at right ($18.50, Corbin: Paul Stuart), are worn with ecru knitted shirt ($13, Fashion Hill). Girl's long pants are batik and madras ($16 each, Gordon-Ford); man's are madras ($18, Gutstein-Tuck). Blazer ($15) teams with shorts ($8, White Stag), madras cap from Gobbi.


Source:

Sporting Look - SI- 1/11/60