"Belong" on Any Campus, 1965

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The Bowdoin Orient - 10/1/65

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A.H. Benoit Co. clothing store, 1966 1968. Benoit's had stores in Westbrook, Portland, Biddeford, Brunswick, Lewiston and Ogunquit.

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Maine Historical Society

Unnecessarily Handsome, 1965

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The New Yorker - 10/2/65

The casual picture, 1965

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The New Yorker - 8/14/65

Auf Deutsch, 1965

Source: flickr

Bostonian's Sewing Circle, 1965

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Playboy - December 1965

Our Regatta Shirt, 1965

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The New Yorker - 6/19/65

Northwestern, 1965

The 1965 Northwestern "Syllabus" yearbook.

Madras on the cover...



...and madras inside.

Rugged, 1965

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The Daily Princetonian - 5/3/65

Try pure wool Hopsack, 1965

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The New Yorker - 9/11/65

Chipp, Fall and Winter, 1965

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ejforbes.com - STYLE | Chipp, Fall 1965

Discover the luxury of Lodenfrey, 1965

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The Daily Princetonian - 11/22/65

Ed Heald, Dartmouth '68

From Racked.com...

Ed Heald, Dartmouth '68, on his "Take Ivy" Photo and 1965 Ivy Style

For Southern Vacationists, 1965

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The Pittsburgh Press - 12/28/65

Step up close and sniff real ivy, 1965

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Notice with what unaffected ease you take on today's trim lines. Natural shoulders are smooth and comfortable - and carefully Bond-tailored to stay that way. Lap seams and hook vent are exactly right to the fraction of an inch. Trousers hang straight and slim. You're looking at Ivy "summa cum laude."

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Milwaukee Journal - 9/17/65

[Ed. comment: Sniff? No, thank you. I'm more of a visual learner.]

Make Mine Madras, Cornell, 1965

(as always, click each to enlarge)

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Cornell Daily Sun - various issues, all from the spring of 1965 (apparently the zenith of the stuff)

The Duffle Coat

(alternately: Duffel, Toggle, Duffer, Convoy)

The history of the duffle coat, from British maker Gloverall:

The word Duffle originally referred to a Heavy Woollen Cloth closely woven for warmth and manufactured in the Belgian Town of Duffel. However over the years it has come to signify a hooded coat with distinctive toggle fastenings which was adopted by the British Navy and used by officers and men of the watch to protect against the biting Atlantic and North Sea winds. The toggles could be unfastened whilst wearing thick gloves, and hoods were carefully designed to fit over peaked Naval caps.

Photographs of servicemen during the 1914 - 18 war show a duffle type coat. Between the end of World War I and the start of World War II the coat was modified into the traditional Naval Duffle.

Gloverall still maintains this Naval link through the Iconic ‘Monty’ and its application to the service highlighted by its namesake Field Viscount Montgomery and is worn by Jack Hawkins in the film ‘The Cruel Sea’. The design of the latter is a replica of the original retaining its characteristic rope and wood toggling, webbing stays and two piece hood.

In 1951 Harold & Freda Morris who specialised in selling cotton, leather, Gloves and Overalls were approached the by the Ministry of defence to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. Mr Harold Morris then conceived the name Gloverall.

from "The Cruel Sea"

Here is a World War 1 Royal Navy duffle coat in a photograph from the RN Submarine Museum.

The caption reads:

A photograph of Lieutenant Basil Beal wearing foul weather gear, taken in 1914. Beal stands on the fore casing of HMS B1 wearing typical foul weather clothing of the period. A ‘Lammy’ or ‘Duffle’ coat is worn over the uniform jacket, together with leather gauntlets and heavy sea boots.... Beal was one of the earliest officers to specialise in submarines. He was killed in March 1917, whilst in command of HMS E49 when the submarine hit a German mine off the Shetland Islands.

From a December 23, 1941 article in the Milwaukee Journal:

Right from the British royal navy comes a warm coat that men in American civilian life may wear for sports and when the weather gets really uncomfortable. It is the duffle coat. Worn now by civilians as well as officers in the British navy it gets its name from a durable weatherproof wool fleece woven first in Belgium about 200 years ago and worn later by English channel boatmen.

The material used in this American made version is very similar and the coat itself is an exact replica of the one issued by the navy. American made coats are now going to Britain to augment supplies produced there.

The duffle coat is natural camel color. It is very loose fitting and the smart knee length men like for sports and casual wear. The shoulders are reinforced, pockets are enormous and there is an attached hood which buttons closely about the neck.

There is a nautical air about the frog fastenings which are made from tacking rope and wood peg cones from the ship's rigging boxes. The coat also comes with regular buttons, if preferred.

For added comfort there are leg straps which button around the legs to keep the coat securely in place.

In Britain, the duffle coat is worn by officers on convoy duty and by civilians for country sports wear. American men find it a good choice for campus and after skiing as well as general knockabout wear.

Illustration from the Milwaukee Journal - 12/23/41
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Additional images:

Trevor Howard in the 1949 film "The Third Man"

"Duffer"

Gentry magazine, winter 1951. Caption: The Duffle coat with fishing hemp loops and wooden peg buttons, seen at Meadowbrook. This is an adaptation of the British and Norwegian naval officer's coats.

American Fabrics #17, 1951

American Fabrics #17, 1951

American Fabrics #17, 1951. Oxford's Bullingdon race meet. "The Duffle coat is worn by Mr. John Richardson, while Mr. Ilay Campell wears cavalry twill trousers with the solid color waistcoat so much in vogue."

Squire Shop (Ithaca, New York), October 1963

Irv Lewis (Ithaca, New York), October 1965

Current Gloverall, Model 575, "Original Monty"

Stanley Blacker, 1965

Guaranteed to Bleed, 1965

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Toledo Blade - 4/29/65

Student Protest, Yale, 1965

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Google's LIFE photo archive

The Secret Vice

It's the secret vice! In Europe, all over England, in France, the mass ready-made suit industry is a new thing. All men, great and small, have had tailors make their suits for years, and they tend to talk a little more with each other about what they're getting. But in America it's the secret vice. At Yale and Harvard, boys think nothing of going over and picking up a copy of Leer, Poke, Feel, Prod, Tickle, Hot Whips, Modern Mammaries, and other such magazines, and reading them right out in the open. Sex is not taboo. But when the catalogue comes from Brooks Brothers or J. Press, that's something they whip out only in private. And they can hardly wait. They're in the old room there poring over all that tweedy, thatchy language about "Our Exclusive Shirtings," the "Finest Lairdsmoor Heather Hopsacking," "Clearspun Rocking Druid Worsteds," and searching like detectives for the marginal differences, the shirt with a flap over the breast pocket (J. Press), the shirt with no breast pocket (Brooks), the pants with military pockets, the polo coat with welted seams—and so on and on, through study and disastrous miscalculations, until they learn, at last, the business of marginal differentiations almost as perfectly as those teen-agers who make their mothers buy them button-down shirts and then make the poor old weepies sit up all night punching a buttonhole and sewing on a button in the back of the collar because they bought the wrong damn shirt, one of those hinkty ones without the button in the back.

And after four years of Daddy bleeding to pay the tabs, Yale, Harvard, and the rest of these schools turn out young gentlemen who are confident that they have at last mastered the secret vice, marginal differentiations, and they go right down to Wall Street or wherever and—blam!—they get it like old Ross, right between the eyes. A whole new universe to learn! Buttonholes! A whole new set of clothing firms to know about—places like Bernard Weatherill, probably the New York custom tailor with the biggest reputation, very English, Frank Brothers and Dunhill's, Dunhill's the tailor, which are slightly more—how can one say it?—flamboyant?—places like that, or the even more esoteric world of London tailors, Poole, Hicks, Wells, and God knows how many more, and people knock themselves out to get to London to get to these places, or else they order straight from the men these firms send through New York on regular circuits and put up in hotels, like the Biltmore, with big books of swatches, samples of cloths, piled up on the desk-table.

From "The Secret Vice" by Tom Wolfe, for New York Magazine and published in The Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby, 1965