Welcome to The Ivy League Look

This blog presents a historical view through articles, photographs, reminiscences, and advertisements, of an American style of men's fashion of the mid-20th century known as "The Ivy League Look" or "The Ivy Look."

This blog will not present modern-day iterations of this "look"; it will be shown in its original context as an American style worn during this specific era. Author commentary will be kept to a minimum.

This is not a commercial site and links to commercial sites will not be posted.

Showing posts with label Gentry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gentry. Show all posts

March 8, 2012

Gentry: Pattern and Palette in Print

From Bearingsguide.com


In 1951, Macon, GA native William Segal launched a men’s lifestyle publication so unique, it’s still unlike anything we see today. Although it only lasted until 1957 after 22 issues, Gentry magazine’s exceptional quality in content and photographs not only reflected, but influenced the culture of its time, covering men’s attire, food, literature, art, automobiles and the outdoors.

The pioneering magazine is the inspiration for an upcoming exhibit at the Georgia Museum of Art in Athens: Pattern and Palette in Print: Gentry Magazine and a New Generation of Trendsetters. On view March 17 to June 17, the exhibit will present every Gentry cover along with inspired patterns created by current fabric design students, a selection of period menswear and other objects featured in the periodical.

“The magazine was a milestone in its use of hand-pasted tip-ins, superior-grade paper and frequent inserts of such ephemera as booklets, limited prints, die cuts, fabric swatches and even fishing flies,” said Mary Koon, co-curator of the exhibit and editor at the Georgia Museum of Art. “Swatches of twills, poplins and herringbone suiting were hand-pasted in the magazine alongside photographs or drawings of corresponding garments."

As part of a lesson in color forecasting and its significance to fabric design, students were asked to find inspiration from the 1950s and the pages of Gentry to create a master color palette and then design their own patterns.

Below, Mary elaborates on the exhibit, which will hold an opening event on March 23 with catering by her husband, Hugh Acheson, of Five and Ten and Empire State South fame.

On Gentry and today’s trends:
“After I learned about Gentry, Hugh and I started buying the magazines on ebay. Although this is clearly not a monographic fashion exhibition, it does feature a selection of menswear, and I think we are about to see a bigger focus on menswear in fashion exhibitions in major museums. I think it's relevant, too, that this exhibition is happening in the South, where menswear is, I think, experiencing a kind of revival. There is also the recent fascination with heritage brands. Arrow brand shirts were advertised in every issue of Gentry. Urban Outfitters carried a line of Arrow shirts in 2010, and in 2011 Arrow revamped its brand and created a new retail collection in Europe with classic designs and fabrics retrofitted for today's consumer. There is a late 50s Arrow shirt in the exhibition.”

On food, fashion and art:
“I love that James Beard was a frequent contributor to Gentry, which makes it especially fitting that Hugh is catering the event. The opening reception is also celebrating another exhibition, To Make a World: George Ault and 1940s America, so we are asking people to dress in silhouettes from the 40s and 50s, and we will serve a period cocktail, based on a recipe from an issue of Gentry.”

General public tickets for the opening reception at the Georgia Museum of Art (Friday, March 23, 5:30 – 8:30 p.m.) are $15 and available at the door, but you need RSVP to sgeorge1@uga.edu.

July 24, 2009

France: Le Crocodile, 1967



They are known as "alligators" in the U.S. and "crocodiles" in 84 other countries. By any nationality or nomenclature, the French sports shirts, with a familiar-looking reptile embroidered on them, sell exceedingly well. Last year the Paris-based firm of Chemise Lacoste sold 1,700,000 of the shirts, 50% in France and the remainder in the crocodile-alligator world beyond. This month, as Lacoste's factories reopen after a vacation layoff, the order backlog has reached 200,000, and Chemise Lacoste has also gotten an unexpected bonus. Catherine Lacoste, 22-year-old daughter of Founder Rene Lacoste, last month outplayed the pros and, as an amateur, won the U.S. Women's Open golf tournament in Hot Springs, Va. "I don't know if it's because my daughter won or not," says Rene Lacoste with a smile, "but everybody seems to want our shirts now."

Complete article:

Time - 9/1/67

Additional images:

Gentry magazine, Summer 1953

Gentry magazine, Summer 1956

July 14, 2009

Seaforth, 1952

(click to enlarge)

A new fabric import takes its place in the front ranks of sports jacket classics. Woven by skilled hands of fine Shetland wool...it has the full-bodied character and virile patterns that are so highly prized by knowing men.

Source:

Gentry Magazine - Issue #4, Fall 1952 (via flickr)

July 10, 2009

And Now for Something Completely Different*, Chipp, 1956

Silk is the perfect suiting for summer, but for men it has always had one big drawback. It has never had the adaptability of woolens and worsteds on the designer's drawing board and the weaver loom. Fine glen plaids have never been successfully incorporated into silk for the men's suits - until now. Gentry's stylists, working hand in hand with the master silk technicians of the Japanese firm of Kanebo, have finally licked the problem. Under this tissue you see a swatch of the first bolt of silk ever made with a glen weave. Superbly different in design, the material has still other remarkable qualities. It is a 4 1/2 ounce cloth, which makes for great lightness and coolness. It has fine wearing qualities, with a life span that will stretch through many hot seasons. Its wrinkles expired overnight on the hanger. On the facing page (above) you see the first jacket ever made of this cloth. We had it designed and executed by Chipp, custom tailors of New York East 44th Street, under the supervision of Robert DiFalco. It's a three-button model, buttonable at the top or middle. Its lapels are extra narrow. Its patch pockets are smaller than usual, in deference to the fabric's design. Its coin pocket is not patch, to stop your loose change from bulging. (The flap on this pocket can be worn inside or out). The jacket is lined with silk black pongee, full-lined to make it hang with perfect aplomb, and it has a long back vent. We consider it a handsome addition to nay man's summer closet; if you concur, you can take this blueprint to your tailor.

Source:

Gentry Magazine, No. 19, Summer 1956 from Gypsy Wear Vintage


*as in..."Tailored by Chipp, but it's not exactly Ivy, is it?"

July 8, 2009

IZOD presents the Famous Lacoste, 1956

(click to enlarge)
Source:

Gentry Magazine, Summer 1956, via Gypsy Wear Vintage

The Izod "India madras look":

July 6, 2009

Alden and Southwick, 1952

(click to enlarge)

Source:

Gentry Magazine - #5, Holiday Issue 1952, courtesy of DixieRising on The Curriculum

June 23, 2009

J. Press, 1952

(click to enlarge)

Button Down Shirts - Full cut, pullover style with wide back panel pleat - unlined collar and cuffs - buttoned down collar points, collar back and pocket flap.

Source:

Gentry Magazine - #5, Holiday Issue 1952, courtesy of DixieRising on The Curriculum

June 12, 2009

Gentry Fashions...for the undergraduate, 1952

(click to enlarge)

The muffler-toque is rather strange, isn't it?

Source:

Gentry Magazine - Issue #4, 1952 (via flickr)

June 11, 2009

Chipp, 1952

(click to enlarge)

The Chipp Ready-Cut is designed with soft natural fronts, shoulders without padding and small lapels...all important details of the conservative styling for which we are well-known.

Source:

Gentry Magazine - #5, Holiday Issue 1952, courtesy of DixieRising on The Curriculum