Welcome to The Ivy League Look

This blog presents a historical view through articles, photographs, reminiscences, and advertisements, of an American style of men's fashion of the mid-20th century known as "The Ivy League Look" or "The Ivy Look."

This blog will not present modern-day iterations of this "look"; it will be shown in its original context as an American style worn during this specific era. Author commentary will be kept to a minimum.

This is not a commercial site and links to commercial sites will not be posted.

March 26, 2012

Our Lightweight Cotton Sweater, 1979

(click to enlarge)

Source:

The New Yorker - 9/10/79

COTTON SWEATERS are now basics in many warm-weather wardrobes. But such was not always the case, since traditions, even woolen ones, die hard in men's dressing. Perhaps the turning point came eight years ago, when Brooks Brothers, that bulwark of sartorial propriety, introduced a cotton, cable-stitched, V-neck sweater. It was an instant success and ''is now the bulk of our sweater business for the spring and summer,'' says Peter G. Newman, vice president and merchandise manager for furnishings.

Success was slower in coming for Ron Chereskin, the award-winning men's-wear designer. ''In 1977, I was told that men would not understand cotton sweaters,'' he says. ''Today, my cotton-sweater business does about $10 million at wholesale annually.''

Source:

New York Times Magazine - 5/12/85

March 19, 2012

Return of the Button-Down Collar, 1929

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This spring, it is increasingly popular among both Wall Street men and the more style-conscious students at Yale and Princeton. The favored fabric is woven madras in chalk stripings -- blue, tan or helio.

Source:

The New Yorker - 3/23/29

March 8, 2012

Gentry: Pattern and Palette in Print

From Bearingsguide.com


In 1951, Macon, GA native William Segal launched a men’s lifestyle publication so unique, it’s still unlike anything we see today. Although it only lasted until 1957 after 22 issues, Gentry magazine’s exceptional quality in content and photographs not only reflected, but influenced the culture of its time, covering men’s attire, food, literature, art, automobiles and the outdoors.

The pioneering magazine is the inspiration for an upcoming exhibit at the Georgia Museum of Art in Athens: Pattern and Palette in Print: Gentry Magazine and a New Generation of Trendsetters. On view March 17 to June 17, the exhibit will present every Gentry cover along with inspired patterns created by current fabric design students, a selection of period menswear and other objects featured in the periodical.

“The magazine was a milestone in its use of hand-pasted tip-ins, superior-grade paper and frequent inserts of such ephemera as booklets, limited prints, die cuts, fabric swatches and even fishing flies,” said Mary Koon, co-curator of the exhibit and editor at the Georgia Museum of Art. “Swatches of twills, poplins and herringbone suiting were hand-pasted in the magazine alongside photographs or drawings of corresponding garments."

As part of a lesson in color forecasting and its significance to fabric design, students were asked to find inspiration from the 1950s and the pages of Gentry to create a master color palette and then design their own patterns.

Below, Mary elaborates on the exhibit, which will hold an opening event on March 23 with catering by her husband, Hugh Acheson, of Five and Ten and Empire State South fame.

On Gentry and today’s trends:
“After I learned about Gentry, Hugh and I started buying the magazines on ebay. Although this is clearly not a monographic fashion exhibition, it does feature a selection of menswear, and I think we are about to see a bigger focus on menswear in fashion exhibitions in major museums. I think it's relevant, too, that this exhibition is happening in the South, where menswear is, I think, experiencing a kind of revival. There is also the recent fascination with heritage brands. Arrow brand shirts were advertised in every issue of Gentry. Urban Outfitters carried a line of Arrow shirts in 2010, and in 2011 Arrow revamped its brand and created a new retail collection in Europe with classic designs and fabrics retrofitted for today's consumer. There is a late 50s Arrow shirt in the exhibition.”

On food, fashion and art:
“I love that James Beard was a frequent contributor to Gentry, which makes it especially fitting that Hugh is catering the event. The opening reception is also celebrating another exhibition, To Make a World: George Ault and 1940s America, so we are asking people to dress in silhouettes from the 40s and 50s, and we will serve a period cocktail, based on a recipe from an issue of Gentry.”

General public tickets for the opening reception at the Georgia Museum of Art (Friday, March 23, 5:30 – 8:30 p.m.) are $15 and available at the door, but you need RSVP to sgeorge1@uga.edu.

March 5, 2012

Famous Co-op Shirts, 1957

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As interpreted by New England's finest shirtmaker, the cherished button-down collar assumes new significance achieved with a becoming arched front flare. Here shown in choice combed cotton Oxford . . . with collar and cuffs unlined for comfort . . . the distinction of center button on collar-back and center back pleat.

Source:

The Williams Record - 9/25/57