Welcome to The Ivy League Look

This blog presents a historical view through articles, photographs, reminiscences, and advertisements, of an American style of men's fashion of the mid-20th century known as "The Ivy League Look" or "The Ivy Look."

This blog will not present modern-day iterations of this "look"; it will be shown in its original context as an American style worn during this specific era. Author commentary will be kept to a minimum.

This is not a commercial site and links to commercial sites will not be posted.

Showing posts with label J. Press. Show all posts
Showing posts with label J. Press. Show all posts

November 29, 2012

J. Press Cash Sale, 1960

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 11/28/60

February 5, 2012

100% Camel's Hair Polo Coats, 1960

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Natural shoulder, straight falling double breasted model with two-piece half belt, framed pockets and full swelled edges and seams.

Source:

Yale Daily News - 11/9/60

August 8, 2011

Washable Cotton Denim Jackets, 1962

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 4/12/62

June 14, 2011

J. Press Stock Clearance Sale, 1961

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 4/24/61

December 9, 2010

November 10, 2010

Woodsman Jacket, 1966

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 12/9/66

October 18, 2010

September 27, 2010

New corduroy selections, 1966

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 9/22/66

September 13, 2010

August 26, 2010

The J. Press Shirt, 1959

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 9/29/59

March 26, 2010

Clothes Revolution, 1968

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"At schools like Princeton, Amherst, Harvard, Yale and Virginia, where gray flannel slacks and expensive tweed coats were once the uniform of the day, contemporary male garb revolves around a pair of blue jeans or wash pants, a short-sleeved shirt, scuffed loafers, and a coat with fraying elbow patches.

Fathers who once were outfitted by J. Press, Brooks Brothers, Saks Fifth Avenue and Fenn & Feinstein are puzzled when their sons patronize local Army-Navy surplus stores or university co-ops."

Source:

Parade Magazine - 11/24/68

March 5, 2010

Fat Max and Slim Jim, 1966

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"(Brooks Brothers) has kept the width limit at three inches on its exclusive first floor, while letting it reach four in its university and young executives' department.

J. Press and Chipp, two of Brooks Brothers' competitors in the city's tailoring enclave off Madison Avenue at 43rd Street, also sell the wide ties, like Brooks in sober regimental stripes and club patterns."

Source:

Associated Press, July 1966

[Ed. note: See also this J. Press advertisement (look closely at the bottom of the ad)]

December 10, 2009

J. Press Shaggy Dog ®, 1968

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...and for just $6 more be sure to get a "Turtle Neck Bib."

Source:

Yale Daily News - 9/3/68

November 27, 2009

Louder and Odder, 1952

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Source:

LIFE magazine - 12/15/52

November 17, 2009

J. Press, Club Colors (in b&w), 1948

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 6/3/48

October 30, 2009

J. Press, Madras, 1967

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 4/11/67

October 23, 2009

J. Press, Coolie Cloth, 1967

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 4/6/67

Of note: 4-inch-wide ties. As previously mentioned, J. Press was truly at the forefront.

October 7, 2009

J. Press, 1948


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Source:

Yale Daily News - 3/24/48



2009 vs. 1948...


October 6, 2009

Bespeaking of Suits, Chipp


Bespeaking of Suits

Trading up to Custom


by Linda Dyett

...

Co-existing in the low-Forties ambit of the Yale, Princeton, and Harvard clubs is the other upmarket trio, Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Chipp of New York -- all specialists in the button-down shirts and the sack suit. Brooks Brothers dropped its custom-suit department in 1976 (though, by special order, it still does made-to-measure). Press does a fair job with both custom and made-to-measure. As for Chipp, "no one," says G. Bruce Boyer, "surpasses them in making suits in the classic American tradition."

Chipp is one of the most pleasurable American-oriented men's stores around. Cyrus Vance buys his suits here. So do Jamie Wyeth and a major New York fashion designer-sophisticate whose name I can't reveal because one of his sub-licensees is a men's-suit line.

The far end of the well-planned new interior is a quiet, librarylike setting where the custom and made-to-measure wares are sold. Its shelves are filled with gorgeous Scottish Cheviots, handwoven Shetlands, estimable flannels and tweeds, and a stunning collection of Lesser & Sons woolens. Sipping, perhaps, at a glass of Jameson scotch [sic] from the discreet cherrywood-paneled bar, you're bound to wonder what better ambience there could be for choosing a business suit.

And then there are the owners, the Winston brothers, with their funny, off-beat personalities. They're brilliant at making clothes-shopping endurable for men who hate to shop. Imagine equal measures of Woody and Steve Allen trying to sell you a suit.

If you go the made-to-measure route, you'll get a traditional style priced at $500 to $900, plus and extra $40 for cut-through sleeve buttonholes, and the finished product will be ready in six to eight weeks. The custom-made suits start at $1,100, vests at $205. At least some of the excellent craftmanship is provided by an outside contractor, but Chipp's old bushelman is right on the premises to do the fine detail work. So valued is this man, says Jim Winston, that he's kept "absolutely out of sight, with a towel over his head."

You can order almost any custom style your heart desires. André Leon Talley, a House & Garden creative director, recently had Chipp do a snug-fitting hunting-jacket suit with a high-rolled lapel, deeply slanting pockets, and cuffed sleeves meant to be turned up to reveal a flame=red printed-silk lining - a gift to Talley from Tina Chow. The trousers have single reverse pleats and an extension waistband. The style, in covert cloth and carefully modeled on one worn by Jack Bouvier, is proof positive that Chipp can accommodate even very outré wishes. The only taboo here is the heavy-shouldered, oversize look.

The house specialty is unusual jacket-lining fabric, including Liberty, foulard, and challis prints. Or you can have solid-colored Bemberg, and lighter-striped rayon for the sleeves. The Winstons know all about traditional tailoring.

Chipp of New York, 342 Madison Avenue, at 43rd Street, second floor; 687-0850. Open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 5:45 p.m.

Source:

Excerpted from New York Magazine - 2/15/88

September 1, 2009

The Ivy Look Heads Across US, LIFE, 1954


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Top: HOUSTON INSURANCE BROKER Alex Dearborn, Sewanee '50 wears classic three-button suit bought from representative of New York's Chipp.

Bottom: ATLANTA AIRLINE EXECUTIVE William Magill, University of Chattanooga '38, wears "natural look" gray suit from Rich's department store.


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Natural-shouldered suit becomes a new male uniform

The "Ivy League look" identified with determinedly inconspicuous New England males for over 50 years and with Madison Avenue advertising men for the past 10, has now got out of eastern hands and is making its way across the country (left and below). It has also got away from upper-bracket tailors and into the hands of cut-rate clothiers like S. Klein, whose advertisement (right) gives as complete and compact a definition of the look as has ever been written. The popularity of the natural-looking suit has widened quickly in the last two years as men became dissatisfied with pale bulky suits and flashy ties left over from their postwar splurge. Although the authentic Madison Avenue uniform perpetuated by Brooks Brothers and campus-originated shoppes like J. Press (p. 70) has nonexistent shoulders and fits so snugly that it looks a size too small, facsimiles from volume clothing manufacturers and tailors are less severe in cut. To reaffirm their individualism beleaguered Ivy Leaguers are considering adding a fourth button to their jackets or resorting to a radical new silhouette (p. 72).

Caption: LOS ANGELES PRESS AGENT DON HELLER, OCCIDENTAL '49, WEARING GRAY WORSTED SEMICUSTOM "IVY" SUIT FROM LOCAL TAILOR, BOSHARD AND DOUGHTY.


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ITS HOME IN NEW HAVEN

A New Haven institution which rivals Yale in some well-tailored hearts is J. Press, established in 1902 and now carried on by the founder's two sons. Its slope-shouldered product, which the Press boys consider the only acceptable dress for a normal Yale man, has scarcely changed over the years. Press has branch stores in New York and in Cambridge and maintains traveling representatives to replenish the wardrobes of scattered alumni customers. Sometimes regarded as more of a club than a clothes shop, J. Press is delighted rather than dismayed that its look is now capturing the country.

Top caption: PRESS FAMILY PORTRAIT in New Haven shows uniformly dressed salesmen standing behind founder's sons Irving, Yale '26 (left), and Paul.

[Back, left to right: George Feen, Sam Kroop, Gabe Giaquinto, Herman Racow. Front: Irving Press, Paul Press]

Right caption: YALE TACKLE Philip Tarasovic tries to minimize heroic shoulders.

Bottom caption: ODD JACKET, a style supposedly begun by a Yale student in 1928, is fitted to James M. Brown III (see p. 2 of linked document), Yale '56, in the same tweed worn by Press salesman.


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IS THIS THE NEXT LOOK?

DRASTIC ALTERNATIVE TO IVY the "moderate Edwardian" silhouette now available only from custom tailors, appears in tweed suit worn by New York publicist Patrick O'Higgins. Made by Bernard Weatherill, it combines features of British riding clothes and a guardsman's uniform. Jacket flares in back and is four inches longer than usual. Pockets are at a deep slant and buttons on sleeve actually unfasten. Tapered pants are 15-1/2 inches at cuff.

Source:

LIFE magazine - 11/22/54