Welcome to The Ivy League Look

This blog presents a historical view through articles, photographs, reminiscences, and advertisements, of an American style of men's fashion of the mid-20th century known as "The Ivy League Look" or "The Ivy Look."

This blog will not present modern-day iterations of this "look"; it will be shown in its original context as an American style worn during this specific era. Author commentary will be kept to a minimum.

This is not a commercial site and links to commercial sites will not be posted.

Showing posts with label Abercrombie and Fitch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Abercrombie and Fitch. Show all posts

April 7, 2009

Country Corduroy

As the population trend shifts from city to suburb, a new way of dress is developing, an amalgamation of the rustic clothes of the country and the more formal clothes of the city. The result is often spoken of as "suburban" and the look of it is seen in brighter shirts, more casual shoes and easier fitting suits than a man would wear in town. These clothes will take a man anywhere that tweeds will go—to stadium and field events and even casual cocktail parties. The best of the suburban suits are those made of corduroy. In fabrics with both wide and narrow ribs, in colors ranging from tans to fall's new greens, they've been trimmed with leather for added wearability and dash. Newest corduroy suit is Brooks Brothers' Dacron-cotton Brookscord. For the first time, a corduroy has been made of a Dacron and cotton blend, giving the fabric lightness and wrinkle resistance. Where to buy? See below.

Brookscord suit (Brooks Bros., $58) of Dacron and cotton is newest corduroy suit. Bill Clune wears it with checked shirt. Jane Ball's long-line corduroy suit is by Claire McCardell ($50).


Huntcord suit ($53.50) of all-cotton corduroy is worn by Norbert Ford on his Lebanon, New Jersey farm. The suit has leather trim on pockets of both jacket and trousers for long wear.

Wide-wale corduroy of Robert Cleary's suit is trimmed with contrasting leather on collar and pocket ($55). His thornproof knit shirt is of Orion and wool (Activair, $15).

Backstrap belt of Cleary's suit eliminates need for other belt, is of leather as is pocket trim.

Backstrap cap matches suit to left, has leather belted back, trim on beak (Bressler, $4).

HUNTCORD SUIT: Abercrombie & Fitch, New York; L. S. Ayres, Indianapolis; Boyd's, St. Louis; Carroll & Co., Beverly Hills; Frank Bros., San Antonio; Halle Bros., Cleveland; Robert Kirk, San Francisco; Jacob Reed's, Philadelphia; Von Lengerke & Antoine, Chicago.

WIDE-WALE SUIT: White-house & Hardy, New York, Detroit; Atkinson's, Los Angeles; B. R. Baker, Cleveland; Boyd's, St. Louis; MacNeil & Moore, Madison; M. O'Neil, Akron; Thalhimer's, Richmond.

Source:

SI - 9/26/55

The Gleam of Gold and the Shine of Silver

TOP ROW: two antique brass English hunt club designs (each set of 7, $13.50), Old Buttons, Inc., New York; authentic shotgun shell (set of 7, $3.50), Abercrombie & Fitch, New York; Stanford University and other school seals (set of 7, $7.50), Neiman-Marcus, Dallas; antique Civil War uniform (set of 7, $59), Old Buttons.

SECOND ROW: gold horsehead (set of 7, $100), Abercombie & Fitch; antique French mayor's guard (set of 8, $15), Dunhill Tailors, New York; sailboat (set of 7, $53), Old Buttons; College of Hard Knocks (set of 7, $9), Ara's, Wellesley, Mass.; gold wood-grain design (set of 8, $256), Cartier, New York.

THIRED ROW: gold-and-blue-enamel ring design (set of 8, $300), Dunhill; gold rope and anchor (set of 7, $130), Car-tier; custom design for Ford Motor Co. (to order), Ben Silver, Inc., New York; gold threaded design (set of 7, $155), Cartier; gold and malachite Greek head (set of 8, $375), Old Buttons.

BOTTOM ROW: Harvard (set of 7, $7.50), Neiman-Marcus; authentic English coin (set of 7, $26), Old Buttons; brass jumping fish (set of 7, $11), Old Buttons; gold basketweave design (set of 7, $243), Tiffany, New York; silver flying geese (set of 7, $25), Old Buttons. The silk blazer fabrics are from Chipp, the twill and hopsacking from J. Press, New York.

The first blazers often were so riotously striped in a "blaze" of club and school colors (hence the name) that cricket and boating contests looked like circus parades. Some of the buttons in the collection opposite are antiques left over from the jacket's earliest days when blazers were also fitted out with pocket crests in gold bullion thread to signify membership in all sorts of organizations, civil and military. In fact, the navy flannel blazer is a carry-over from the British love for a uniform, and ex-military types in England most frequently adorn their blazers with crests or buttons signifying air groups, fleets and regiments.

Source:

SI - 4/3/67