Arrow Cum Laude, 1964

Dickie, 1964

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 5/8/64

Looks pink, doesn't it? (1964)

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 3/10/64

The mark of distinction -- dirt! (1964)

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 5/1/64

Without looking flat and playing dead, 1964

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The styling is ivy... clean, lean, fully tapered body with back pleat, button and hang loop.

Source:

Brown Daily Herald - 2/3/64

Arnold's Boot Shop, 1964

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Source:

Yale Daily News - 8/1/64

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 One of a collection of photographs taken by the New Haven Redevelopment Agency to document a massive urban planning and development project undertaken from 1956 through the mid-1970s. The federally-financed redevelopment initiative was realized through a series of projects focused on particular New Haven city neighborhoods identified by street or area names. These projects involved the demolition of old structures and construction of new buildings, roadways and other facilities. Parts of Chapel Street and the downtown area were included in the Church Street project. Areas affected by redevelopment as part of this project had been characterized by a mix of small stores, restaurants, theaters and residences. As redevelopment proceeded, whole blocks were demolished to make way for larger modern structures such as department stores, hotels, office buildings, a mall and the New Haven Coliseum.

Source:

New Haven Museum and Historical Society

Brooks Brothers Number Two(s), 1932-1964

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Three new styles of ready-made suits have been added to our stock for this Spring. The familiar Brooks Brothers' models are continued unchanged and are supplemented by these three new styles, which are both single and double breasted - some with plaited trousers - the coats more closely fitted and with squarer shoulders.

Source:

The New Yorker - 2/27/32

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Furthermore, there are five different models which include our new close fitting, square shouldered coats in addition to our older models with natural shoulders. All models have soft rolled lapels.

Source:

The New Yorker - 4/23/32

The ready-made dealers, in fact, have taken several leaves from their custom brothers' books this year, both in unusually smart cloths and styles. The latter are generally giving more breadth to the shoulders and slightly less to the waist, and the best of these suits are so expertly cut and made that they achieve the desired effect without any shoulder padding. In any event, it's a style that has far more individuality than the usual ready-to-wear garment.

A somewhat surprising thing in connection with this trend is the way Brooks have taken the style up. Of course, Brooks still have their tables piled with the good old soft-roll, high-lapel sack coats that have been the accepted college and bond-salesman uniform for so long, but up on another floor, where the more conservative Brooks customer will never find it, is a whole new assortment of clothing hung on hangers in showcases, with two-button coats, peaked lapels, and pleated-waistband trousers! The models are single and double-breasted and show a nice refinement in design. This is especially true of the peaked lapels; they have a rather square cut that does not distract from their smartness, and also does not put your eye out any time you bend your head. From $50 up.


 Source:

The New Yorker - 4/16/32

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Brooks Brothers' ready-made suits for Spring include double and single breasted models in two different styles... one with natural, the other with squarer shoulders.


Source:

The New Yorker - 3/9/35

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 The Brooks Brothers staff unanimously deplores the later Number Two line, with fitted waist and square, padded shoulders. It was introduced as a concession to the Depression, and is now, they hope, on the way out.

Source:

The New Yorker - 5/7/38

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There never was a No. 2. For a few unhappy years, there was a No 222. It had a two-button jacket and pleated pants. Eventually, the pleats were banished, leaving a two-button suit called, inexplicably, No. 3.

Source:

"The suits on the Brooks Brothers Men" - New York Times - 8/15/76

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Source:

The New Yorker - 3/21/64

1966, "Our Newly Redesigned No. 2 Suit"

[Note: Their 1961 two button suit is also sometimes known as the "Number 2".  According to Esquire, the Fitzgerald model is a modified version of this suit. -katon]

Simple on purpose(?), 1964

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Cardigan sweater in 100% imported cashmere, with full saddle shoulder and narrow self piping border.

Source:

The New Yorker - 10/24/64

The Cashmere Goat

Cashmere gets its name from the goat which is a  domestic animal in the high mountain regions of the Cashmere (or Kashmir) province of India. Essentially the same animal is found in other countries of the Himalaya ranges and the name "Tibet" goat is frequently used in referring to the animal from which this special wool is obtained.

Collecting the Wool

The goat is covered with coarse, shaggy hair, beneath which is the soft, downy wool fiber used in making cashmere yarn. The goats are not sheared or clipped as are sheep; instead, twice a year, as the animals are shedding, the loosened down is combed out and saved. In addition, wool is picked off the twigs and underbrush against which the goats have rubbed as they grazed. Traders tour the country periodically, buying wool from the herdsmen, and sending it out to a collection point where it is  baled and made ready for its journey to the processing plant.

The total amount of hair obtained from a single animal is almost incredibly small. It averages no more than six or eight ounces per year, according to most authorities. This means that the operations of a firm such as Cashmere are dependent on the collection of a handful of hair from as many as twenty or twenty-five million goats, living in nearly inaccessible areas of distant mountain countries. With such a tenuous supply line for its primary raw material, the business of processing cashmere might seem a highly venturesome undertaking. But such is not the case. The cashmere industry is vigorous and well-established, and its roots extend back for centuries.

Opening and Scouring

The first operations in the conversion of the dirty, unpromising, raw cashmere into a soft, beautiful yarn are opening and scouring.
 
Opening separates the fibers from some of the heavier impurities and helps to fluff them up, overcoming much of the matting which is evident as the wool is removed from the bale. Scouring, which follows, is the step in which the raw stock is freed entirely of the dirt and grease— normally present in such quantity as to represent as much as one-third of the total weight of the bale. The scouring operation is a most delicate step, for the fibers may be easily damaged.

Wallace Adler, Vice President of Erie Dyeing and Processing Company, is in charge of all the technical aspects of processing, and critical operations such as scouring, de-hairing and dyeing of the cashmere are under his personal direction.

"Cashmere may be ruined by processing techniques which are considered routine in the handling of ordinary wool," Mr. Adler points out. "The soft down is highly sensitive to alkali and it is much more sensitive to excess soda ash than is other wool. It is also readily damaged by too high a temperature during processing." 

Under Mr. Adler's direction, Erie has conducted extensive research in the problem of scouring, and the technique which has been developed has proved both safe and effective. 

The equipment used is what is known in the textile trade as a five-bowl scouring train. This is a unit consisting of five long rectangular tanks (commonly called bowls) each of which is equipped with rows of mechanically-operated forks that gently manipulate the wool and urge it along to the end of the tank where an apron transfers it to the next unit. Each bowl is for a specific function in the scouring process. The first is filled with plain water, held to a temperature of 100 degrees, and serves to condition the wool, by wetting it out and bringing its temperature up close to that required in the next steps. It also removes solid dirt particles and soluble salts from the wool. The second and third bowls contain scouring solution and the fourth and fifth are plain water rinses, which also provide a two-step drop in temperature to avoid cooling the scoured wool too suddenly.

Triton Used

Erie uses Triton, Rohm & Haas synthetic detergent, in each of the two scouring steps. The complete scouring formulation includes a carefully regulated amount of soda ash and certain other chemicals which support the detergent and emulsifying action of the Triton. The resulting scour is mild and gentle, yet it removes even the most stubborn grease and grime from the cashmere. After scouring, the wool is dried and then taken to the de-hairing room for removal of the unwanted hairs. This secret process can be described only in terms of end result: the cashmere enters the room heavily contaminated with stiff, coarse hairs; it leaves as downy wool with all these objectionable hairs removed. 

The cashmere stock is now ready for the various operations which change it into yarn. These steps include blending, mixing, picking, carding, spinning and dyeing. These are typical wool-processing operations, found in any woolen mill, but they are performed at Erie with constant attention to the extra-fine quality of the fiber being worked. 

Dyeing is of special interest, since it may be performed at any of three different points in the manufacturing process: the raw stock may be dyed right after de-hairing; the yarn may be dyed in the skein; or the sweaters may be dyed as completed garments. The choice depends primarily upon the quantities involved. When an order calls for a large number of sweaters in a single shade, the stock-dye process is commonly selected. For the opposite situation, where only a few items in a given color are required, dyeing of the finished garment is the most practical. For requirements that fall between these two extremes, the skein-dye process is the choice. In any of the dyeing operations, Triton may be used as a dye-assist. It is particularly helpful in the stock-dye process where the color must penetrate every fiber of the kettle-load of wool. In skein dyeing, as in the dyeing of the finished garment, the Triton helps to insure a uniform deposit of the dye all the way through the yarn. All dyeing at Erie is precisely regulated by automatic controls, for every effort is made to avoid any unnecessary handling of the cashmere yarn when wet. For this reason, Erie does not strip colors and re-dye - a procedure which is thoroughly practical with other kinds of wool. Cashmere must be dyed right the first time.

Full-Fashioned Knitting

The yarn which has been processed so carefully and dyed with such skill and precision is now ready for Cashmere Corporation's knitting room. Here the painstaking attention to perfection in every detail continues as the yarn is threaded onto the long rows of full-fashioned knitting machines on which the sweaters are made.

Full-fashioned knitting is essential in the production of top-quality sweaters of the type featured by Cashmere Corporation for only by this technique can the perfect fit be built into the garment.

Fronts and backs of the sweaters are knitted separately, as are the sleeves. The parts are then joined, with the sleeves being looped into the armholes on looping machines. The sweaters are now completed and the label— Hadley Cashmere— is sewn in. Hadley is the trade name for all the sweaters manufactured by Cashmere Corporation.

Source:

"Cashmere - Mink of the Sweater Trade", The Rohm & Haas Reporter - November-December 1952

Coca-Cola, ...with a special zing, 1964

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Great for sports cars, 1964

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Source:

Cornell Daily Sun - 9/24/64

UNC Chapel Hill, 1964

Source:

www.chapelhillmemories.com

Summer Hats, 1964

Source:

The New Yorker - 5/16/64

India Madras Blazers, 1964

Source:

The New Yorker - 5/9/64

Great character, 1964

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Source:

The New Yorker - 8/29/64

The Gant story, 1964

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Source:

Lawrence (KS) Daily Journal-World - 4/24/64

Wren Shirts Ltd.

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Spartanburg (SC) Herald-Journal - 10/18/64

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"The history of 'traditionalism' once called 'Ivy League,' dates back before World War II, when students at Eastern universities espoused the fashion cause of comfort and smartness without ostentation. They chose the soft-collared shirt, natural shoulder, muted colors and soft fabrics in all their clothing."

Source:

Nashua (NH) Telegraph - 7/14/62


A few words about Frank J. Reilly, President of Wren Shirts Ltd...

"Mr. Reilly built a successful career in the outerwear business. He began as a salesman for the Manhattan Shirt Company in 1945 and in the course of a 50-plus year career rose to influence the design and marketing of some of the best-known brands in the garment business.

In the early 1970s, Mr. Reilly became US vice president of the Men's Wear Division for Jaeger Fashions. As such, he helped make one of the premier British woolens manufacturers a success in the US market for men's high fashion.

Subsequently, Mr. Reilly became a vice president at Izod Lacoste, which had the US rights to the brand established in Europe by tennis great Jean Rene Lacoste. Nicknamed "Le Crocodile" for his tenacious style of play on the courts, Lacoste founded a company to produce sports shirts and used Le Crocodile (universally referred to as the alligator) for a logo. Mr. Reilly's marketing and design savvy soon helped make the alligator virtually ubiquitous, and extended the line beyond shirts to a general line of sports wear for both men and women.

He often said that the proudest moment of his career was when he became president of Wren Shirts and thus a vice president of the parent company Kayser Roth*. At the time, it made him the youngest vice president of any Fortune 500 company in the US. Remarking on Mr. Reilly's career, a colleague once said, 'He's one of the few people I know who succeeded in business without stepping on people.'"

Source:

Glen Cove (NY) Record-Pilot obituaries - 3/26/04


*Wren shirts were made by F. Jacobson & Sons Inc., another Kayser Roth subsidiary.

Yale, 1964

Source:

LIFE, via Portrait of the University

Milton's Inimitable "Old School Model", 1964

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Source:

The Technique - 6/10/64

Some Ramblin' Wrecks from that era...

One-Act Ivy, 1964

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Source:

Jet magazine - 4/9/64

[Ed. note: LeRoi Jones' Dutchman won the Village Voice’s Obie Award for the Best American Play of the 1963-64 season. Jones (now known as Amiri Baraka) later wrote the screenplay for the movie version.]

Ivy-Inspired, 1964

Seersucker, madras, linen - three of the big summer looks in men's sportswear: (l. to r.) Novel seersucker plaid with red Haggar slacks; Cricketeer's multi-colored traditional jacket in Dacron and wool and Champion gold slacks; and Gordon-Ford's linen jacket in red and off-white stripes with red slacks by Corbin.

Source:

Ebony magazine - April 1964